Thrifting is a bit like treasure hunting. You never really know what you’re going to find, but when you come across something special, it feels like striking gold. Whether you’re sifting through racks at a local thrift store, browsing a flea market, or scrolling through online resale platforms, knowing how to spot quality in secondhand finds can make all the difference.
When you know what to look for, you’ll save money, time, and closet space. You’ll also avoid the dreaded “buyer’s regret” that sometimes comes with an impulse buy that falls apart after one wear. If you’re ready to up your secondhand game, here are some key things to keep in mind.
Start With the Fabric
One of the quickest ways to tell if an item is high-quality is by feeling the fabric. Trust your hands here. Quality materials tend to feel thicker, smoother, or softer depending on the type of fabric. For example, pure wool feels warm and dense, while cheap polyester often feels thin and shiny. Good denim feels sturdy. Real leather smells like, well, leather. You can usually spot synthetic imitations with a quick touch and sniff.
Natural fibers like cotton, wool, silk, and linen generally hold up better over time compared to synthetic ones. They also tend to be more breathable and comfortable. That said, some blends can be great too—especially if they include just enough synthetic to add durability or stretch.
A good trick is to gently stretch the fabric. If it snaps back into shape, it’s a sign of decent quality. If it stays stretched out or looks flimsy, it might not last long.
Check the Label
Don’t skip the tags. The care label can tell you a lot. It lists the fabric content, care instructions, and the country where the item was made. Items made in countries known for quality manufacturing, like Italy or Japan, can be a hint that the item is worth a second look.
Brand labels can help too, but they shouldn’t be the only factor. While well-known or designer labels often signal quality, sometimes you’ll find lesser-known brands that are just as good—or better. Once you start noticing certain names that consistently produce well-made pieces, you’ll get a feel for which ones to look out for.
Also, check if the label is sewn in or printed on. Sewn-in labels typically indicate a more thoughtfully made garment.
Look at the Stitching
Take a close look at how the item is sewn. High-quality pieces usually have tight, even stitches with no loose threads hanging out. Flip the item inside out if you can—clean inner seams are a great sign.
Pay special attention to areas that take a lot of wear and tear, like the underarms, crotch, and hems. If the stitching looks messy or uneven in these spots, the item might not hold up well.
French seams, double stitching, and reinforced buttons are all signs of solid construction. If a garment is fully lined—especially in jackets or skirts—it’s often a sign that it was made to last.
Examine the Fit and Shape
Even the best materials and stitching can’t save a poorly cut piece. Try things on if possible, or hold them up to see how they’re shaped. Quality garments are cut in a way that flatters the body, with darts, seams, and shaping in all the right places.
Look for structure. Blazers, for example, should have some weight to them, and the shoulders should keep their shape. Pants should drape well and not bunch oddly at the seams. Knitwear should feel sturdy, not flimsy or stretched out.
If an item has clearly held its shape after being worn and donated, that’s a good sign it’ll keep looking good for a while longer.
Don’t Ignore the Details
Sometimes it’s the little things that really show off quality. Check the buttons—are they securely sewn on? Are they made from natural materials like wood, shell, or metal, or are they cheap plastic? You can always replace buttons, but finding ones that come with beautiful or unique buttons is a bonus.
Zippers should glide smoothly. Tug on them a few times to make sure they aren’t sticking or snagging. Also, check for any missing hardware like buckles, snaps, or hooks.
Pockets are another good clue. Fake or non-functional pockets are often a sign of fast fashion. Real, deep pockets? That’s what you want.
Inspect for Wear and Tear
Secondhand doesn’t mean second-rate, but it does mean the item has had a life before it reached you. So give it a good once-over. Look for stains, holes, pilling, and stretched-out areas.
Some flaws are easy to fix—a missing button or a hem that needs stitching can be a quick DIY or tailor trip. But some damage is harder to repair or just not worth the trouble. Yellowing underarms, deep-set stains, and major fabric thinning are usually a pass unless you’re buying for upcycling or crafting.
It’s also smart to look at how much wear the item shows overall. A shirt that still looks great after years of use is probably made of good stuff. A dress that looks tired or faded may not have much life left in it.
Shoes and Bags
Need Special Attention
When it comes to secondhand shoes and bags, there are a few extra things to check.
For shoes, look at the soles. Are they worn down evenly, or is one side more scuffed than the other? Uneven wear can make them uncomfortable. Also check the inside—if the insoles are completely worn out or the stitching has come loose, they might not be worth it unless you plan to get them repaired.
Good-quality shoes are often made from leather or suede, with stitching (rather than glue) holding them together. Brands that are known for craftsmanship—like Frye, Clarks, or Doc Martens—are often great secondhand scores.
For bags, check the handles and corners. These areas take the most wear. If the structure is still solid and the hardware works, it could be a great find. Leather bags that have aged well often look even better with time, developing a nice patina.
Know What’s Worth Splurging On
Thrifting is usually about saving money, but sometimes you’ll come across something that’s priced a bit higher—and it’s worth it.
Maybe it’s a vintage wool coat with perfect tailoring or a handmade leather bag. If it’s in excellent shape and made from quality materials, it can be worth paying a little more. Think of it as investing in a piece you’ll wear for years.
When you know how to spot quality, you’ll also learn when it’s worth walking away. Not everything that’s cheap is a good deal, and not everything that costs more is overpriced. Trust your judgment.
Learn From Experience
The more you thrift, the better your eye gets. You’ll start to recognize quality at a glance. You’ll know how a good pair of jeans should feel, or how a well-made blazer should hang.
You’ll also start spotting common red flags: those fast fashion dresses that look great on the hanger but feel like tissue paper, or the cute shoes that are falling apart at the seams.
Over time, you’ll build a wardrobe (or a home) filled with items that are not only affordable but built to last. And there’s something really satisfying about wearing something with a story behind it.
Trust Your Instincts
Sometimes, you’ll just get a gut feeling about something. You’ll touch a sweater and know it’s special. You’ll flip over a plate and see a maker’s mark that tells you it’s not your average thrift find.
Those instincts develop as you go. So, give yourself permission to take your time, explore, and enjoy the hunt. The best secondhand treasures are often the ones you weren’t even looking for—but knew were worth taking home the moment you spotted them.